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男士皮衣穿搭技巧,建议收藏 Tips for wearing men's leather clothes

我们只讨论三种材质,那些鳄鱼,貂等壕穿的不在今天的讨论范围,先看结论。

We only discuss three kinds of materials. Those alligators, minks and other trenches are not covered in today's discussion. Let's see the conclusion first.

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耐用程度:牛皮>猪皮>羊皮

Durability: cowhide > pigskin > sheepskin

价格:牛皮>羊皮>猪皮

Price: cowhide > sheepskin > pigskin

美观:牛皮=羊皮>猪皮

Beauty: cowhide = sheepskin > pigskin

柔软度:羊皮>牛皮>猪皮

Softness: sheepskin > cowhide > pigskin

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牛皮中的小黄牛皮(就是黄牛幼崽的皮),其不仅具备了黄牛皮的所有优点,并且改善了牛皮软度不够高的缺点,但是价格确是普通黄牛皮的好多倍。

The calf hide (that is, the skin of the calf) in the cowhide not only has all the advantages of the cowhide, but also improves the weakness of the soft degree of the cowhide, but the price is many times that of the ordinary cowhide.

而水牛皮表面粗糙,纤维粗松,强度较黄牛皮低,其性能与黄牛皮相差比较大。

However, the surface of buffalo hide is rough, the fiber is coarse and loose, and the strength is lower than that of cattle hide.

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羊皮的特点是手感柔软光滑而细腻,毛孔细小,是非常适合做皮衣的原料,但缺点不够牢固,耐用度很差。

Sheepskin is characterized by soft, smooth and delicate handle, small pores, which is very suitable for leather clothing, but its disadvantages are not strong enough, and its durability is poor.

而猪皮的优点明显:经久耐穿,款式新颖,便宜。

The advantages of pigskin are obvious: durable, fashionable and cheap.

缺点同样明显:透气性稍差,品相差,皮质较硬,一般作为皮鞋的内衬使用。

Disadvantages are also obvious: slightly poor air permeability, product difference, hard leather, generally used as the lining of leather shoes.

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技巧❷

Skills

制作工艺上,远离过度修正的皮革

Keep away from over modified leather in manufacturing process

将动物的皮加工成可以制作产品的过程是重中之重,皮质高低贵贱全在这个环节。

The process of processing animal skin into products is the most important, and the high and low of leather is all in this link.

生牛皮的加工叫做鞣(róu)制,

The processing of raw cowhide is called tanning,

鞣制一般分植鞣和铬鞣,

Tanning is generally divided into vegetable tanning and chrome tanning,

前者是由植物中萃取出的植物鞣剂来加工,

The former is processed by vegetable tanning agent extracted from plants,

天然环保,不含对人体有危害的物质,可与皮肤直接接触。

It is natural and environmentally friendly, does not contain substances harmful to human body, and can be in direct contact with skin.

后者是用含有重金属铬的工业鞣剂鞣制,成本低、生产速度快。

The latter is tanned with industrial tanning agent containing heavy metal chromium, with low cost and fast production speed.

在鞣制过程中会诞生3种不同属性皮革:Full Grain Leather(全粒面革)、Top Grain Leather(半粒面革)Corrected Leather(修面革)。

There are three kinds of leather with different properties: full grain leather and top grain leather.

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而Corrected Leather是指将皮革打磨以去除瑕疵,去除原始颗粒,

Corrected leather means to polish the leather to remove defects and original particles,

然后通过机械挤压获得人造动物皮肤颗粒的皮革。

Then the leather of artificial animal skin particles is obtained by mechanical extrusion.

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Corrected Leather属于过度修正的皮革,代表着皮革本身就质量不好,需要通过化学处理后使其看起来品相更好。一但是这些处理方式会影响皮革的耐用性和透气性。随着穿着时间增长,它们会开裂破损,最终只留下一件破烂的外套。

Corrected leather is a kind of over corrected leather, which means the leather itself is of poor quality and needs to be chemically treated to make it look better. First, these treatments will affect the durability and air permeability of leather. As time goes on, they crack and break, leaving only one tattered coat.

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技巧❸

Skills

价格最好是你月薪的一半,具体情况量力而行即可。

The best price is half of your monthly salary. You can do it according to your ability.

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买多少价位的皮衣是合适的?

How much price is suitable for leather clothes?

如果你刚毕业工资3000旁边,那么快消品牌如zara或者hm的价格在1500元左右的真皮夹克就可以,工艺也许没那么精细,至少材质上不会用假人造皮忽悠你。

If you just graduated with a salary of 3000 yuan, then a real leather jacket with the price of Zara or HM of about 1500 yuan can be sold. The technology may not be so refined, at least the material won't fool you with dummy leather.

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而是一般皮衣玩家的皮衣入门价格在5000元左右,这代表了过关的真皮材质,牢固的五金配件和结实的做工。

But the entry price of general leather players is about 5000 yuan, which represents the qualified leather material, solid hardware accessories and solid workmanship.

较高的价格通常是更好质量的一个重要指标(**皮具貂皮城的不算),选择不会随意加价来赚取巨额利润知的名品牌,比如Schott NYC的经典款就是很好的入门选择。

Higher price is usually an important indicator of better quality (not counting the price of leather mink city). Select famous brands that won't raise the price at will to earn huge profits. For example, Schott NYC's classic is a good entry choice.

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对于更高价位来说,就是风格的事了,比如最典型的哥特机车风格的Bill Wall Leather家的皮夹克,价格在两三万,或者时装品牌Saint Laurent的经典皮夹克,也很受欢迎。

For a higher price, it's a matter of style. For example, Bill wall leather's leather jacket with the most typical Gothic locomotive style, whose price is 20000 or 30000, or Saint Laurent's classic leather jacket, is also very popular.

作者:shuju123 分类:男士皮衣 浏览:85 评论:0